Suspension And Steering Upgrade - 21st Century SharkSuspension and steering upgrades endow a classic C3 with modern handling performance. From the July, 2012 issue of Vette By Team Vette Photography by Aron Wells
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When the C2 was introduced in 1963, independent front suspension had already been the norm in Detroit for quite some time. Independent rear suspension, however, was quite innovative, and a substantial improvement over the solid-axle setup found under the first-generation Corvette. Though innovative then, it's just plain old-fashioned now. The C2 (and subsequently, the C3) IRS featured independent trailing arms linked by an enormous (and heavy) transverse leaf spring. Having the left and right suspension linked with this spring partially nullified much of the advantage of IRS, as each rear wheel was susceptible to the other's movements. (Both the first- and second- generation Corvettes have standard "Banjo"-style spring-and-shock setups in the front.) Luckily, there's a company out there that has anticipated Corvette owners' desire for more-precise handling: SpeedDirect. The company's Shark Bite independent front and rear coilover suspension systems, when combined with its Steeroids rack-and-pinion power-steering kit, update any C2 or C3 chassis to modern performance standards. The parts are available as three separate packages, so you can upgrade your car in stages to fit your budget. Naturally, we opted to install all three kits on our '69 "stunt car" at once. Let's take a look at the major portions of the installation.  The subject of our installation...  The subject of our installation project was this ’69 Corvette, known, appropriately enough, as the “Atomic Bomb.” Originally a barn find, the car now boasts a blower-topped 502 pulled from a crashed movie stunt boat. With that kind of grunt just a throttle dab away, the stock suspension and steering were in serious need of an update.  1 The car is owned by famed...  1 The car is owned by famed movie stuntman Mike Kirton, who enjoys beating it like a rented mule in every type of competition he can find. The 800hp car was fun to begin with, but the dated suspension really showed its age and severely limited its competitiveness.  2 From IndyCar to drag racing...  2 From IndyCar to drag racing to LeMans Prototypes, there is one common thread in modern racing- suspension design: the coilover shock. Its advantages are numerous, including easy spring-rate changes, shock-damping adjustments, and ride-height modifications, as well as reduced weight. SpeedDirect’s Shark Bite kits are designed specifically for C2 and C3 Corvettes, with no cutting or welding required.  3 While we used a lift to...  3 While we used a lift to do the swap, the Shark Bite parts can also be installed using jackstands in an ordinary garage. We began by methodically laying out all the components and carefully reviewing the comprehensive directions that came with the kit.  4 Now is also a good time...  4 Now is also a good time to assemble the coil springs and shocks. We tightened them 2 inches past the point of initial contact with the perch. This was just an approximation, since ride height has to be set with the car on the ground.  5 With the factory components...  5 With the factory components out of the way, we could begin assembling the Shark Bite. First, we installed the rear support strut but left the bolts slightly loose. Next was the center shock-mount bracket (shown). It features holes on both sides so you can tighten the bolts on the support strut later.  6 The next step is to remove...  6 The next step is to remove the rear crossmember bolts, one side at a time, and install the pivot brackets. Remember to use a liberal dose of Loctite on each bolt you install.  7 Connect the opposite end...  7 Connect the opposite end of the support strut to the pivot bracket and torque the bolts in place.  8 When installing the aluminum...  8 When installing the aluminum rockers, be sure to place the thick washer toward the front of the car, and the thin one to the rear. That’s the only way it will work.  9 The lower trailing-arm...  9 The lower trailing-arm brackets are the next components to be installed. There are different versions for standard and offset trailing arms. If you plan to use the latter (to allow for wider wheels and tires), be sure to specify this when ordering your kit.  10 Next, install the rod...  10 Next, install the rod ends linking the rockers to the lower trailing-arm brackets.  11 It’s now time to mount...  11 It’s now time to mount the rear coilover in the center shock-mount bracket. The top of the shock has a nifty quick-release bolt that allows you to change the springs and/or shocks in about 20 minutes when competing.  12 It’s helpful to have a...  12 It’s helpful to have a second pair of hands nearby for the last step. You’ll need to lift the rear wheel, or put a jack under the suspension to lift it, until the shock’s mounting eyelet aligns with the corresponding mounting hole on the rocker. Once that’s done, simply slide the quick-release bolt in place, and you’re finished.  13 Take a few minutes to...  13 Take a few minutes to go over all the bolts and ensure they’re properly torqued. Also verify that each side of the suspension moves freely as you compress the rear of the car. With that done, it’s time to move to the front.  14a The aluminum Shark Bite...  14a The aluminum Shark Bite upper A-arms use a rigid, Teflon-impregnated bushing to eliminate deflection in the suspension. They also raise the car’s roll center from 0.029 to 3.31 inches, thereby decreasing body roll. Best of all, they’re significantly lighter than the steel stockers, removing unsprung weight from the front corners...  14b ...To install, jack up...  14b ...To install, jack up the front end and remove the front wheels, then unbolt the brake calipers and swing them to the side, out of the way. (Do not allow them to hang by the brake line.) Place a jack underneath the rotor and compress the suspension slightly. Loosen the upper ball-joint nut about half an inch, then remove the retaining nut at the top of the shocks.  15 Exercise extreme caution...  15 Exercise extreme caution when removing the factory coil spring. It’s a good idea to use a length of chain to secure the spring to the lower control arm to prevent its unanticipated escape. Slide in a ball-joint fork at the upper control arm and give it a couple of whacks with a hammer to pop it loose. Jack the suspension slightly to remove the nut before slowly releasing the jack. The upper ball joint will now slide out of the control arm. With this accomplished, simply remove the chain and extract the spring. Next, move to the inside and remove the crossbar bolts. Make note of the exact number of shims with each of the bolts, as you’ll need to reinstall these with the new A-arms. You can now remove the upper control arm.  16 Now it’s time to install...  16 Now it’s time to install the front coilovers. SpeedDirect can supply the proper-rate springs you need to match your engine combo; naturally, we chose the big-block springs to match our C3’s supercharged 502. The coilovers install just as the stockers. After tightening all the fasteners, slowly raise the jack to compress the suspension and ensure the spring is properly seated in the spring bucket.  17 You’ll need to guide the...  17 You’ll need to guide the shock bolt through to the frame opening, then move the upper ball joint upwards to slide it into the A-arm. A few cranks of the jack will snug up everything. Finally, tighten the shock and upper ball joint.  18 Reinstall the brake caliper...  18 Reinstall the brake caliper and move on to the other side. Once that’s done, it’s time to begin the Steeroids installation.  19 Start the Steeroids assembly...  19 Start the Steeroids assembly with the new mounting brackets. These mount in place of the Pitman arm on the passenger side and the steering box on the driver side. We started with the passenger-side bracket. Don’t forget the Loctite.  20 The driver side actually...  20 The driver side actually uses two brackets, as shown. One bolts to the frame, where the steering box was, while the second piece bolts to the first.  21 Connect the new rack-and-pinion...  21 Connect the new rack-and-pinion unit’s U-joints to the steering column.  22 At this point, you can...  22 At this point, you can bolt the power-steering arms to the pump and let them hang. There isn’t much room once the rack-and-pinion unit is installed. There are just two U-bolts mounting each side to the previously installed brackets.  23 Reconnect the power-steering...  23 Reconnect the power-steering lines and install the new tie-rod ends. You’ll have to eyeball these in order to get the front wheels lined up well enough to drive the car to an alignment shop. After a precision four-wheel alignment, the installation is complete.  24 With the alignment done,...  24 With the alignment done, it was time to hit the track and see just how much better the tires gripped the pavement. First, we asked Kial Butler, lead driver of the Disney/MGM Studio stunt-car team, to really wring out the car with some drifting, sliding, and reverse 180-degree turns. Butler noted that the suspension was easy to adjust and never let him down, no matter how much he hammered it.  25 Next up was E.T. Miranda,...  25 Next up was E.T. Miranda, a race/stunt-car driver who’s slid, crashed, thrashed, and destroyed vehicles all over the world. Miranda set up the coilovers with a stiff rear setting and a fairly soft front mode for some pinpoint steering. He then launched one wild stunt after another, in an attempt to make the suspension and steering cry, “Uncle!” But try as he might, the Shark Bite and Steeroids parts took the savage beating time and again. Like any quality performance upgrade, their only limitation is the driver. vette
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