Officially, RPO code N14--available on '65-'67 Corvettes--was known as the "Side Mount Exhaust System." Vette people just call this option "side pipes." Regardless of the terminology, the polished aluminum covers, chambered tubes, and stainless-steel tips can add flash to any midyear Corvette of this vintage.
The question is, how difficult are they to install?
We met '66 Sting Ray owner Mike McComas last month, when we covered the installation of a Vintage Air Surefit A/C system in his classic midyear. With his freshly air-conditioned car now more pleasurable to drive, McComas decided to up its style factor by installing a side-pipe setup he bought at a swap meet.
While the process would seem to be straightforward, McComas did encounter a few surprises along the way. The most notable was the requirement that he cut an "ear" off of each lower front fender. Second, he had to bend back the steel brackets located beneath the original side molding on each side of the car.
In McComas' case, it was also discovered that the passenger-side bend near the header didn't fit. Apparently, the pipes he bought had suffered some damage in the past. Luckily, a little heating and bending restored them to their original shape. (Buying a new set of side pipes from the aftermarket should ensure a good fit, while also providing the option of longer-lasting stainless-steel components.)
Let's take a look at the installation process now, focusing on the highlights of the job.
1 Removing the rocker panels...
1 Removing the rocker panels is easy. Simply pull the screws that hold the panels to the body.
2 Corvettes built with factory...
2 Corvettes built with factory side pipes don’t have these steel brackets.
3 McComas mocked up the side...
3 McComas mocked up the side pipes’ aluminum covers and found that this lower front fender “ear” interfered with installation.
4 With a Sharpie and a ruler,...
4 With a Sharpie and a ruler, he inscribed a straight line to cut off the ear.
5 Next, he sawed off the...
5 Next, he sawed off the fiberglass ears (one per side), cutting along the straight lines made by the Sharpie.
6 Non-N14 cars have a rear...
6 Non-N14 cars have a rear valance with outlets for exhaust tips. If you’re following along at home, you’ll need to remove the tips.
7 Next, remove the rear-valance...
7 Next, remove the rear-valance bolts.
8 Finally, take off the valance....
8 Finally, take off the valance. Replace it with an N14-style panel, which won’t have the holes for the exhaust outlets.
9 Remove the exhaust pipes....
9 Remove the exhaust pipes. The pipes on McComas’ ’66 needed a little heat to swell the outside metal and allow for separation.
10 McComas used a wooden...
10 McComas used a wooden 2x4 and a rubber mallet to knock loose the rear exhaust pipes.
11 Remove the header pipes...
11 Remove the header pipes (one per side).
12 These brackets interfered...
12 These brackets interfered with the chambered side pipes.
13 McComas hammered the metal...
13 McComas hammered the metal brackets toward the body using a block of wood.
14 Initially, our vintage,...
14 Initially, our vintage, swap-meet-sourced side pipes didn’t fit. It seems the passenger- side pipe had been damaged at some point in the past. Technician Shaun Hon applied heat with a torch, while McComas applied pressure with the block of wood to bend the pipe back to the stock radius. Luckily, this low-tech method worked.
15 This metal splash shield...
15 This metal splash shield will need to be removed from inside the fender well.
16 Install this fastener...
16 Install this fastener (also called a Tinnerman nut or speed nut) on the splash shield. Tightening the fastener draws two prongs together to act as a lock nut.
17 Another problem with the...
17 Another problem with the used side pipes was that screws had been used in place of rivets on the front bend of the pipe shielding.
18 McComas took out the incorrect...
18 McComas took out the incorrect screws and installed rivets instead. New side pipes from an aftermarket vendor will already have rivets for the attaching bracket.
19 The top bracket bolt...
19 The top bracket bolt on the front of each side-pipe cover goes through the body and into the Tinnerman nut in the metal splash shield. Tightening the top nut requires no backup.
20 The rest of the installation...
20 The rest of the installation is simple. Just install the black molding unique to the side pipes, and you’re done.
21 Completed, the side pipes...
21 Completed, the side pipes add classic looks and a thunderous exhaust rumble to any ’65-’67 Corvette. vette