Electric-Wiper Upgrade - Rainy-Day Lady Number 1972Upgrading an early C3 with an electric wiper-door actuator from elite custom pain and body. From the February, 2012 issue of Vette By Jeremy D. Clough Photography by Jeremy D. Clough
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When you walk into the front room of Wolfgang Geiger's shop, Elite Custom Paint and Body (ECPB), with its red-and-black checkerboard floor, the first thing you notice is not necessarily Corvettes. Oh, they're there alright--the Top Flight '67 427 drop-top, the stripped '69 'vert, the metallic silver '72--but they're very much not alone. On one side of the '72 is a '53 Ford pickup in Pepper Gray metallic paint with a supercharged Cobra engine and C4 Corvette suspension. On the other side--lined up with the midyear and the stripped shark--are a '69 Mustang and a pair of Jags, one an E-Type V-12, as well as a totally idiosyncratic Italian Autobianchi Bianchina. Not to mention the straight-eight Packard engine on a stand (the Packard's body is in the paint booth), equipped with period-correct go-fast goodies, or the rare Saab coupe in the back. All of which is to say, with the broad variety of cars he works on, Geiger understands the problem that confronts those of us who actually drive older Corvettes: there's a lot of stuff that just doesn't work. Take, for example, my first Corvette, a blue '71 four-speed 'vert powered by a warmed-over 454, a car I actually used as a daily driver at one point. Lowered, stiffened, Bilsteined, and built with malice aforethought, it was a raw, elemental thing. And without air or functional heat--to say nothing of defrost--you broiled in the summer, and arrived well-chilled in the winter. It was also a car whose defining characteristic was that it constantly seemed bent on killing you--not only because of the power and the perpetually insubordinate rear suspension, but also because the windshield-wiper door wouldn't open. Although ill-advised and arguably illegal, it is possible to drive through the rain in daylight without wipers. But not at night, a lesson I learned the hard way on a winding Tennessee two-lane. Dead at eye-level, the oncoming headlights turned the windshield into a glaring sheet of blindingly white droplets. The only thing I could see was the guy behind me... Who appeared to be wearing a cloak and carrying a scythe. Enter my current Corvette, a red '72 coupe in much better condition, but still with a non-functional wiper door. I've tried rolling down the window and holding the door open while driving, with predictably poor results. On a couple-thousand-mile road trip to the coast this summer, I actually zip-tied the sucker open after the Rain-X I had applied ceased to be effective. That worked, but looked as ugly as homemade sin. While I've heard rumors of wiper doors that actually function on other people's Corvettes, they remain to me as the res cogitans of RenÚ Descartes--a purely immaterial thing, unconnected to physical, experiential reality. Reenter Geiger and ECPB. As the second of a pair of vacuum-operated systems Geiger was charged with replacing on a customer's '72 coupe (see last month's article covering the headlight-actuator fix), the wiper door found on '68-'72 sharks is particularly troublesome. Among other things, the door itself operates in an arc, which means a simple piston moving in a straight line won't do the trick. After experimentation, Geiger, himself an electromechanical engineer, created a system using the same basic electric actuator used for his headlight conversion, but with a housing that allows the actuator to move, following the arc of the opening wiper door as it extends. As with the headlight actuators, we'll follow ECPB's installation of the wiper door system on my red '72 coupe. Admittedly excited once the installation was complete, I actually hoped for rain on the way back home from ECPB. No luck that night, but we've had plenty in the month or so that's passed since then, and the wiper door performs as advertised. Almost anticlimactically, you click the switch over, the wiper door opens, and bang, you can see. Considering my past experience with the vacuum-operated wiper doors, I'm still not quite used to the idea of the wipers working (call me Pavlov's dog), but work they do.  ECPB is (from left to right)...  ECPB is (from left to right) owner Wolfgang Geiger, Bryan Kelly, and Sean Broome. Located in LaFayette, Georgia, just south of Chattanooga, the shop produces electric actuators to replace the troublesome vacuum systems found on third-generation Vettes.  1 The wiper-door conversion...  1 The wiper-door conversion kit consists of an electric actuator, its housing, and the wiring harness and switch that make it work in concert with the wipers. Installation requires some fitting, which can be done with handtools, and takes an estimated three to four hours.  2 As it came from St. Louis:...  2 As it came from St. Louis: the stock vacuum actuator. The first step is to remove the grille between the hood and wiper door; next, remove the vacuum lines from the tank to this vacuum canister, as well as the one that goes to the wiper switch. Cap off the vacuum port on the carburetor and make sure the car still runs as it should, then shut it back off. Note that in this photo, the nuts that hold the actuator to its bracket have already been unscrewed.  3 Removal of the actuator...  3 Removal of the actuator will require you to pull it off its bracket, as well as pull back the rubber skirt and unscrew the long adjuster nut that connects the operator rod to the wiper-door mechanism. Since it’s designed to shorten or lengthen the joint between the two, it has a righthand thread on one end, and a lefthand on the other.  4 After the actuator has...  4 After the actuator has been removed, the bracket still has to come off. Since the electric actuator has its own housing that mounts in its place, the stock piece is no longer needed.  5 With the actuator and bracket...  5 With the actuator and bracket removed, you can see the long adjuster nut to which the new actuator will mate. Since the wiper door moves in an arc, the hole will need to be enlarged so the shaft can move up and down enough to push the door through its travel. The part that needs to be cut is not the round hole in the fiberglass, but rather the steel part behind it, which is what the bracket used to mount to.  6 Before enlarging the hole,...  6 Before enlarging the hole, the adjuster nut will need to be removed (turn to the right to unscrew it), and the nuts that held the bracket on will need to be reinstalled on their bolts. The mounting points for the bracket are part of the steel assembly that needs to be modified so the actuator shaft can pass through it, and without the bracket in place, the assembly is loose within the firewall. Reinstalling the nuts—without the bracket in place—pulls it snug against the firewall so it can be cut with a file or hand grinder.  7 A round file will work...  7 A round file will work for opening up the hole—essentially making it an oval, by cutting 1⁄4-inch from the top and another 1⁄4-inch from the bottom—but it’s going to take a while to cut it by hand. A hand grinder makes for much easier work, but either way, this is the time-consuming part of the installation. It could probably be done with a Dremel, but expect to go through a lot of those little sanding drums. When you’re done, make sure to blow off all the shavings and lubricate all the pivot points.  8 Once the opening has been...  8 Once the opening has been relieved enough to give the shaft sufficient freedom of movement, close the wiper door and guide the threaded stud that the long adjuster nut fits on back through the newly opened hole. Bear in mind, this may take some fishing—if you can’t reach it, it may be easier to screw the adjuster nut back on and then pull it forward.  9 With the adjuster nut in...  9 With the adjuster nut in place, screw in the new wiper-door actuator counter-clockwise. It should take about 10 turns for the piston to reach the suggested distance from the firewall, which is about 11⁄4-inch. By this time, it should be safe to remove the nuts that held on the bracket.  10 Once the piston is adjusted...  10 Once the piston is adjusted to the right length, mount the two sides of the new actuator housing to the bolts that held the old bracket.  11 Mount the actuator to...  11 Mount the actuator to the housing using the crosspin, which passes through the end of the former and seats in the slot on either side of the latter. This is what the actuator pushes against in order to operate the wiper door.  12 Screw the top of the actuator...  12 Screw the top of the actuator housing on with the eight included screws. It may help to use a smaller screwdriver or awl to line up all of the holes.  13 Once the mechanical parts...  13 Once the mechanical parts are in place, it’s time to turn our attention to the wiring. Note that the actuator has a 10-amp fuse; this is calibrated to blow before the actuator can damage itself should it encounter an obstruction. If you blow a fuse, in all likelihood that’s what it is—find and fix the obstruction (which may be related to how far in the piston is screwed), and replace the fuse. Don’t get frustrated if you go through a couple fuses in getting the system set up.  14 The first order of business...  14 The first order of business is installing this micro switch. It’s mounted to one of the supports that holds the grille between the wiper door and hood, and it causes the wiper door to close. Since turning off the wiper switch on the center console causes the wipers to go down, this switch is activated by the wiper arm when it comes to its resting position.  15 Mounting the micro switch...  15 Mounting the micro switch will require drilling two holes (either 5⁄32-inch or 4mm, depending on whether you like English or metric). The PVC spacer can be used as a template for the holes, and should be installed between the switch and the support. Assuming you’re not a leprechaun, a right-angle drill will help with drilling the holes properly.  16 Here’s the micro switch...  16 Here’s the micro switch in its assembled position; note the PVC spacer in place behind it, and that its long lever is located beneath the wiper arm.  17 With the micro switch...  17 With the micro switch in place, you’ll need to connect it to the unit’s wiring harness. This requires running wires through the firewall, in this case through a pre-existing hole. It’s also possible to run them through the hole left when the hood’s light switch (which sits just over where the actuator mounts) has been removed.  18 In order to put power...  18 In order to put power to the new actuator, the red wire will need to be connected to a 12-volt constant positive connection—in this case, the red (positive) terminal on the alternator.  19 The ground wire, which...  19 The ground wire, which is the one with the ring connector on the end, needs to go to an engine ground, such as this one on the top of the intake manifold. As with any electrical contact, clean the surface well to ensure it makes a good connection.  20 Connect the yellow wire...  20 Connect the yellow wire to an “ignition switched” terminal at the fuse block. The last remaining wire—the black one with the splice on the end—will be connected to the blue wire coming off the three-connector plug at the wiper motor.  21 For general engine-compartment...  21 For general engine-compartment neatness, and to keep all the actuator wiring together, wrap the wires and run them through the brackets that used to hold the vacuum hoses. Next, remove all the remaining vacuum hoses and merrily fling them across the room.  22 With that done, cap off...  22 With that done, cap off the ports on the vacuum hoses that need to stay in place (such as those going to the power brakes). Finally, reinstall the grille that goes between the wiper door and hood, using the provided short screws on the micro-switch support. Welcome to driving in the rain!
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Elite Custom Paint & Body, LLC
220 West Patton Street
LaFayette
GA
30728
706-639-9493
http://www.ecpb.biz
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