Project C3 Triple-EX - Extreme Exterior Makeover, Part 1Gets A Change Of Appearance From the February, 2010 issue of Vette By Dave Young Photography by Dave Young
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While many of us attempt to rationalize our Corvettes by using them to commute, offering rides to our significant others, restoring them as investments, or even by entering sanctioned racing events, there's no arguing that the money used to purchase, fuel, and modify these limited-use conveyances falls under the rubric of "expendable income." But while a Vette can sometimes be difficult to justify in a strictly fiscal sense, it does offer enjoyable travel and relief from the day-to-day stresses of life, all of which can lead to higher productivity. Although we did improve our... Although we did improve our car's older paint by buffing it out, up close you could really see Project C3 Triple-Ex's imperfections. Wanting our project car to project the proper image, we decided a new paintjob was in order. Of course, like other transportational frivolities such as a yacht or airplane, a Corvette must be properly maintained if it's to offer the expected rewards of ownership. Moreover, the car's appearance should be reflective of its intended use and/or its owner's attitude and position in life. [What are you trying to say?-Ed.] Though we did restore our Stingray's existing paint in a previous issue, there was no doubt that Project C3 Triple-Ex's older, aesthetically unappealing paintjob remained unsuitable for a magazine project car. To rectify this malfeasance, we decided to treat the '71 Stingray to a fresh paint scheme. We justified the decision in part by telling ourselves that the new paint would protect the vehicle from the elements, but the truth is that we simply wanted the car to look its best, as it represented the magazine. As with all capital expenditures, there are some parts of a restoration project where it pays to spend a little more, because the rewards are exponential. When building a Corvette, we've found that bodywork and paint are areas that fit that criterion, since good materials and professional work really show in the quality of the finished product. This is not to suggest that you have to spend the majority of your project funds on a paintjob, as you'll ultimately reach a point of diminishing returns. But we certainly wouldn't recommend having your Vette painted by a budget paint shop using cheap paint and materials. Alternatively, while companies specializing in Corvette restorations are likely to perform quality work and offer a "turnkey" experience, chances are you'll pay a premium for this convenience and craftsmanship. We've found a nice alternative to lie somewhere in between those extremes, at local shops that specialize in collision work but are willing to take on the occasional restoration project. The first step taken by the... The first step taken by the crew at JD's Paint and Body Shop was to remove all the ancillary items that didn't need to be painted. Located as we are in central Florida, we often trust our restoration work to JD's Paint and Body Shop, in the town of Mulberry. Owner John Dempsey has been operating an automotive paint shop for many years, remembers these cars when they were daily drivers, and has repaired and restored numerous Corvettes in his career. Since collision and insurance work can be unpredictable, JD also likes to take in restoration jobs to keep his employees busy during the lulls. Though it can be frustrating to watch your car sit idle while the body shop repairs newer cars for insurance claims, there are several advantages to this approach provided you have a little time to wait.  It's amazing how many parts...  It's amazing how many parts need to be removed in order to perform a proper paintjob. Most of these items will be replaced with new parts from Corvette Central.  It's amazing how many parts...  It's amazing how many parts need to be removed in order to perform a proper paintjob. Most of these items will be replaced with new parts from Corvette Central.  After scraping as much of...  After scraping as much of the old paint as possible off of our Stingray, it's ready for sanding. Prior to sanding, however, tape is applied to all the body lines. This procedure will keep the lines crisp when the new paint is applied.  Using orbital sanders, the...  Using orbital sanders, the shop personnel sand the remainder of the body down to the original primer or gelcoat. The rest will be done by hand or air file. An air file with 80-grit paper... An air file with 80-grit paper is used to remove the layers of paint and primer from previous paintjobs until the original gelcoat is revealed. Using an air file saves time and keeps the panels straight, so less fill will be required later. Since collisions shops need to do high-quality work expeditiously, they generally have efficient, state-of-the-art equipment and can perform all the necessary functions in-house, no matter what they find under the paint. Additionally, the employees of these shops tend to keep up on the latest refinishing products and techniques available, and can apply that knowledge to yield a paintjob that not only looks good, but lasts a long time as well. The body fillers and other products used by collision shops like JD's are typically the best available-in fact, they're likely the very same ones used by those expensive resto facilities. JD recommended BASF Diamont paint products for a show-quality finish on our car, and given our positive experiences with the Diamont basecoat/clearcoat system in the past, we decided to follow his recommendation. With our body shop and paint products chosen, it was finally time to pick the correct color and paint scheme for C3 Triple-Ex. You never know what you'll... You never know what you'll find under the paint on your Corvette when you strip it for bodywork. We were fortunate, finding only some minor cracking from previous damage in the passenger-side doorjamb. If we were restoring this Stingray, we would simply refinish the car in the original hue of Brands Hatch Green, obviating any color-selection dilemma. But since this car is and will remain far from stock, our color and graphic options were wide open. While we did briefly consider a '70s tribute theme of wild candies, lace inlays, and an airbrushed wizard riding a Siberian tiger on the hood, we resisted this temptation and moved on to ponder more-traditional schemes. Loving the clean, basic lines of the early C3, we decided not to add any fancy spoilers, louvers, or air dams-we even deleted the rear luggage rack. For purposes of simplicity, we also decided to keep the aftermarket front end on our car for now, thus buying ourselves some time to find all the necessary parts for a future restoration to factory-style pieces.
Envisioning a color combination for our Stingray was difficult not so much because we're picky, but because this body style looks great in so many colors. But while the sinister-looking black paint that came with the car certainly grew on us in the months after our purchase, we wanted to do something a little more adventurous than the typical monochromatic approach. Another paint scheme we particularly liked was the black-on-red Baldwin Motion treatment featured on one of the tuner's more famous early Stingrays. Then, while driving to work one day, we fell in behind an '09 Z06 finished in stunning Cyber Gray, and it was that sighting that inspired our paint-scheme decision: Since our '71 will reflect the best of both old and new automotive technologies, we decided to embrace this dichotomy by painting the car Cyber Gray with a black stripe around the tail panel and down the middle, similar to the early Baldwin cars. To repair the damage, the... To repair the damage, the crew at JD's bonds fiberglass mat behind the affected area, then grinds the damaged fiberglass away and cuts new mat to fill. The mat is then soaked in resin and bonded to the appropriate area. So, without further ado, let's make some progress toward making Project C3 Triple-Ex more aesthetically appealing. While we won't finish the car this month, we'll show you how bodywork is properly performed, and get our project ready for paint and reassembly in next month's issue.  To properly fill holes in...  To properly fill holes in fiberglass-including those for the luggage rack and alarm key-switch-a grinder is used to form each hole into a conical shape. Next, the holes are backed up with fiberglass, and progressively larger, circular pieces of resin-soaked 'glass mat are used to fill them.  With repairs made, the entire...  With repairs made, the entire Stingray is put in primer. This is done both to seal the car and so it can be block sanded to check for straightness.  We used BASF R-M DP26 two-part...  We used BASF R-M DP26 two-part primer for this project. BASF products are top notch, and this primer fills and seals very well. It's also easily sandable.  After the primer phase, a...  After the primer phase, a product called dry guide coat is applied to the car and parts to prepare them for block sanding. When sanding the car, low spots will remain dark as the guide coat is sanded off around them.  The entire car is now block...  The entire car is now block sanded, revealing imperfections in the body that must be filled with either body filler or primer.  Because the molds used to...  Because the molds used to mass-produce these cars at the factory weren't perfect, it's not uncommon for C3s to have some panel waviness. Major imperfections can be filled using Dura-glass or body filler, while minor faults are filled by re-priming and sanding.  Once the panels are straight,...  Once the panels are straight, they're reinstalled on the car so that all the gaps and body lines can be checked. Our doors' alignment was good after minor adjustments, but the back of the hood was a little low.  To address this issue, the...  To address this issue, the crew at JD's Paint and Body installs two hood bumpers to support the rear of the hood. Otherwise, our car is shaping up and getting closer to being painted.  After checking panel alignment,...  After checking panel alignment, the doors and hood are pulled back off, and all of the pieces get one more coat of primer. Painting the doors and hood separately ensures that tight areas such as doorjambs get plenty of paint coverage.  After the final coat of primer,...  After the final coat of primer, the car is covered with another dry guide coat and block sanded. This might seem redundant, but getting the panels laser straight requires multiple applications of primer, followed by block sanding by hand.  Finally, seam sealer is applied...  Finally, seam sealer is applied to all the necessary areas, and our project car is nearly ready for the paint booth.  As a final step to ensure...  As a final step to ensure panel straightness and paint adhesion, all of the panels on the car are wet sanded before being placed in the paint booth. There are lots of steps like this that are only performed by professional paint and body shops like JD's. An economy shop just scuffs the paint on the car and paints right over it.  Before applying paint to the...  Before applying paint to the car and parts, a pre-cleaner is used to remove any waxy or oily residue that could cause the new paint to fisheye. We can now mix up our BASF Diamont basecoat and start spraying.  The quality of the products...  The quality of the products used to refinish your car not only helps determine the luster of the paintjob, but also how long it will last. Having had consistently great luck with BASF products, we chose the company's Diamont line of base- and clearcoat for this project.  This month we showed you how...  This month we showed you how to properly prepare your Corvette for paint. As we've demonstrated, the quality of the paintjob is very dependent on the quality of the bodywork underneath. We already know how our project car looks, but you'll have to wait until next month to watch as we apply and buff the paint, then put Project C3 Triple-Ex back together with new parts from Corvette Central.
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