1971 Chevrolet Corvette C3 - Fueling The FireUpgrading Project C3 Triple Ex's Fuel System For Maximum Performance From the December, 2009 issue of Vette By Dave Young Photography by Dave Young
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With any car we build, restore, or modify, there are certain temptations we must avoid to ensure that the end product conforms to the performance and aesthetic standards we set at the beginning of the project. So while it may be tempting to install a high-powered engine in our '71 C3 at the outset, the fact is that the car itself won't be ready for a big-inch powerplant until we perform some basic upgrades. Adding incredible power to an otherwise factory Stingray is usually a recipe for disaster-since the engine will outperform the other parts of the automobile-so, as you've likely noticed, we're improving various portions of our car's systems to ready them for an upgraded powerplant. Last month we installed an aluminum radiator and other cooling system components to ensure our C3 doesn't run too warm, and this month we'll be upgrading the fuel system with some high-performance components from Summit Racing Equipment. In stock form, a properly maintained C3 fuel system is generally adequate if your engine isn't making more than 300 horsepower or so. Start adding components like a longer-duration camshaft, an aluminum intake, headers, and a big carburetor, however, and the system's shortcomings quickly become apparent. Although the previous owner of our project car had replaced the fuel tank and sending unit, and added an electric fuel pump, there were other issues with the car's fuel system that needed to be addressed before we could rely on our Stingray to perform like it should. A couple of issues ago, as we readied our car for the road, we fixed a couple of fuel-related problems and replaced some leaking lines. This month we'll go through the car's entire fuel system, greatly increasing its capacity to deliver fuel while making it more reliable as well. Since our engine didn't have... Since our engine didn't have a mechanical pump, we ordered this Holley high-volume unit from Summit. This pump provides 110 gallons per hour at a pressure of 6.5 to 8 psi and doesn't require an external regulator. Carbureted C3 Corvettes like ours came with an engine-driven fuel pump that draws gasoline through a line to the pump and then provides pressurized fuel to the carburetor. The main problem with this style of system is the difficulty it has sucking gasoline the six or so feet from the fuel tank to the pump. If the pump can't pull enough fuel, it can't provide a pressurized fuel supply to the carburetor. Once the carb's float bowls run dry, the engine will run lean, and eventually stop running altogether. Though commonly called "vapor lock," the real name for this problem is fuel starvation, and it can have many causes, including clogged fuel filters or lines, corroded pick-up units, trash in the tank, or inadequate supply-line diameter. Of course, the most common cause of fuel starvation is a fuel pump that's not rated to provide as much gasoline as the engine is using. This is generally what happens when you add a more powerful engine to a car without upgrading the stock pump. The car will run fine during normal driving, but once the throttle is opened, the pump simply won't be able to keep up with the engine's fueling demands. You can get away with this for a while if you don't drive too aggressively, as the carburetor's float bowls provide a buffer for the fuel system. As you apply full throttle, the bowls will drain, and assuming you let off the gas before they drain completely, they'll refill while the car is idling or cruising normally. Since Corvettes were made for aggressive driving, however, it pays to upgrade the fuel-delivery system, especially if you plan to increase the engine's output like we do.  During the initial inspection...  During the initial inspection of our Stingray, we noticed that the fuel tank and sending unit had been replaced with new parts. Working our way forward, however, revealed the inadequacies of the car's existing fuel system.  A previous owner had installed...  A previous owner had installed an electric fuel pump in the car and removed the stock mechanical unit. Although this aftermarket pump did allow the car to run and drive, it couldn't keep up with the needs of our mild 350 during full-throttle acceleration. Although adequate fuel delivery can often be obtained by installing either a large electric fuel pump or a high-volume mechanical unit, we'll actually be doing both. Installing a Holley electric fuel pump at the rear of the car, near the tank, will provide a constant stream of pressurized fuel to the high-volume Holley engine-driven pump we're also installing, thereby allowing the latter to do its job of sending pressurized fuel to the carburetor. Though this dual-pump method is slightly more costly than simply upgrading one unit, the redundant pumps will provide the best possible fuel delivery while also making the car more reliable. If one pump happens to fail, the car can still be driven on the other one, rather than leaving us stranded. With our plan in place, we called Summit Racing Equipment and ordered a Holley "red" electric fuel pump, to install near the tank, along with a high-volume Holley mechanical pump for the engine. We also ordered a roll of 3/8-inch-diameter aluminum fuel line, which we'll use to replace the stock line in our car. Additionally, we'll be installing one of Summit's billet fuel filters and replacing our rubber fuel lines with NHRA-legal-and much safer-braided hose. While we're at it, we'll also swap the air filter to a high-flowing K&N unit, also from Summit. Performing this type of work isn't too difficult with the right tools and knowledge, but if you're not sure you can do it, we definitely recommend taking the car to a professional, as fuel-related problems can quickly lead to fire-related problems. All told, we had our new parts installed and our system replumbed in about eight hours. While the new fuel system may be overkill for the warmed-over 350 that's in the car now, it'll certainly be adequate for the high-horsepower mill we plan to build for Project C3 Triple Ex!  Among the problems we found...  Among the problems we found with our car's fuel system were incorrect clamps at various locations. The clamps shown here were actually allowing fuel to leak onto the intake manifold, creating a fire hazard.  This fuel filter is obviously...  This fuel filter is obviously too close to the header. It's also made from glass, which will break if the car is ever in a collision. Since it's always best to filter the fuel before it goes into the pump, we'll replace this filter with a Summit Racing Equipment billet high-flow filter between the tank and the electric pump.  When the previous owner removed...  When the previous owner removed the engine-driven fuel pump, he installed a block-off plate. We picked up the proper plate and fuel-pump pushrod from our local machine shop, Auto Performance Engines.  Always verify that the clocking...  Always verify that the clocking of the inlet is compatible with your engine and car. A nice feature of the Holley pumps is that the clocking can be changed if necessary by removing these bolts, rotating the pump base, and reinstalling the bolts.  The engine-driven pump can...  The engine-driven pump can be installed from above, but we found it easier to do from below, with the car on a lift.  We chose to install a Holley...  We chose to install a Holley "red" electric fuel pump at the rear, to provide a constant supply of fuel to the engine-driven pump. The red pump will provide 97 gph at 7 psi. Like the mechanical pump, it doesn't require an external regulator.  We installed the electric...  We installed the electric pump on the inside of the passenger-side framerail, which is very close to the fuel tank. Fuel pumps are designed to push, not pull, so the closer the pump is to the tank, the better.  The Holley red pump is simple...  The Holley red pump is simple to install because it doesn't draw enough amperage to require a relay. It also self-regulates fuel pressure to 7 psi, so an external regulator isn't required.  After nearly 40 years, the...  After nearly 40 years, the original fuel-supply line in our car was almost certainly clogged and corroded. We removed it in favor of new aluminum 3/8-inch-diameter fuel line.  Summit sells aluminum fuel...  Summit sells aluminum fuel line in 25 foot coils, so with a tubing bender and flare kit, you can make your own custom-fit setup. In addition to being a larger diameter than the factory steel tubing, the aluminum line will dissipate heat and resist corrosion better.  Using a tubing cutter, a bender,...  Using a tubing cutter, a bender, and a double-flare kit, we fabricated the necessary fuel lines from our 3/8-inch aluminum coil. Since we're using braided line and AN-style fittings, it's necessary to have all the appropriate fittings, which we also acquired from Summit.  While we were upgrading our...  While we were upgrading our fuel system, we also swapped carburetors to a Holley 750 double-pumper we obtained from Summit. Since our future engine will utilize a Holley carb, we wanted to make sure we plumbed the system accordingly.  Using braided fuel line and...  Using braided fuel line and AN-style fittings is not only safer-since braided lines won't rupture like rubber ones-but it also makes the car legal for sanctioned racing events.  With our fuel-system upgrades...  With our fuel-system upgrades complete, we're now able to run the car through the quarter-mile without any fuel-starvation issues. Better yet, the system will now support upwards of 600 hp, so we can concentrate on building a stout small-block for Project C3 Triple-Ex.  To finalize our new upgrades,...  To finalize our new upgrades, we installed a K&N air filter. This filter not only allows more airflow-and more power-but it can also be cleaned, re-oiled, and reused indefinitely.
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