Once you have the front ride height and rake where you want them, you can jack weight into (most likely) or out of (fairly unlikely) the right rear corner while the car is on the scales. If using stock springs, reaching the rear adjusters is fairly easy to do. Unless your car happens to be off by an extraordinary amount, you should only need to adjust the right rear corner. Again, in most cases, you'll be adding weight by raising this corner. The right rear is almost always the corner with the lowest weight. As you adjust, you'll notice the opposite corner's weight will decrease.
One area in which coilover-equipped cars are at a disadvantage (however insignificant) is the inconvenience of removing a wheel to make a ride-height adjustment.
The actual adjustment of a coilover is quite easy. Loosen the lockring and spin the spring seat (down to increase ride height or corner weight). The lack of rubber parts means that adjustments with coilovers are far more precise than with the stock springs and adjusters.
Patience is a required tool in setting corner weights. It'll take several rounds of adjustments to get the weights just right. Be sure to bounce the car to resettle the suspension after each adjustment and repeat until you're satisfied. Picky bunch that they are, the LG crew was satisfied only when D6C was at a perfect 50/50.
Adjusting the ride height has little effect on camber on a Corvette. Here, Louis Gigliotti verifies that camber is still in the ballpark. Look for an alignment story in an upcoming issue.
Ride-height changes do impact toe settings significantly. It's a good plan to head straight to the alignment rack after performing so much suspension work. It's the last key in maximizing the effectiveness of all the shiny new parts hanging under the car.