SpeedDirect Shark Bite Aluminum A-arms - Handle It

Have you been considering an A-arm upgrade for your C2 or C3? If so, you're not alone. Though acceptable by the standards of the era, second- and third-generation Corvette suspensions leave much to be desired when compared with more-modern offerings.

Fortunately for us performance-minded types, SpeedDirect offers a full line of chassis and suspension enhancements designed specifically for these classic Vettes. The company's Shark Bite aluminum upper A-arms, for example, greatly improve the C2/C3's suspension geometry, resulting in superior handling and cornering ability. They are even designed to work with modern, low-profile radial tires that require more positive caster than the factory arms are capable of offering. The result? Much improved steering feel and self-centering force.

According to SpeedDirect, the Shark Bite units are the only aluminum C2/C3 A-arms on the market. Amazingly, they offer an 8-pound (per pair) weight savings over the factory cast pieces and are lighter than tubular A-arms as well. The included bushings are made from Rulon, a high-performance fluoropolymer composite that won't squeak, does not require lubrication, and has a lower coefficient of friction than polyurethane.

Best of all, the Shark Bite A-arm kit is designed as a true bolt-on, with no modifications required for installation. Kits are available in both natural and polished-aluminum finishes and come with instructions, bushings, and cross-shafts. Stock (Moog) or performance ball joints are optional.

Speed Direct sells complete Shark Bite A-arm kits starting at $610. Typical labor time for installation is three to four hours, making this project ideal for a Saturday afternoon. Follow along as we conquer the job using a floor jack and stands, basic hand tools, and a ball-joint remover.

Begin by placing the car securely on jack stands and removing the front wheels.	Remove the cotter pin for the upper ball-joint stud, and loosen-but do not remove-the nut.	Next, loosen the stud from the spindle with a ball-joint separator. Leave the nut on so the suspension won't fly apart (from released coil-spring pressure) when the stud comes loose.
Remove the cross-shaft nuts. Depending upon your application, you may also need to remove the radiator-fan shroud and power-steering pump before you can access the A-arms.	Use a hydraulic jack under the lower A-arm to slightly compress the spring. With the spring force off the suspension, remove the ball-joint nut and pull the stud free of the spindle.	The A-arm is now free to be removed.
Reverse the previous steps to install the new A-arm. Carefully orient the cross-shaft so the offset is toward the floor, then slide it onto the frame studs.	Install a flat washer on each cross-shaft stud and partially tighten the nut.	Using the slots in the cross-shaft, move the A-arm as far to the rear of the car as possible, and snug the stud nuts. Next, check the full range of up and down travel, making sure the arm doesn't contact the frame at any point. Adjust the arm as necessary to avoid frame contact and tighten the stud nuts to 50 lb-ft.