When installing the rears,...
When installing the rears, check for brake-line clearance through the full range of suspension travel. Be careful when sliding the rotor over the parking-brake assemblies. You remembered to release the parking brake first, right?
Break-In
Once the new brakes are installed and the fluid has been changed, it's important to test the brakes before heading out. Before starting the car, depress the brake pedal. Make sure you have a hard pedal feel and the pressure remains firm. Next, start the car, apply the brakes several times, then slowly drive off the lift, stopping first after 5 feet, then 10, and so on. Once you feel confident that the brakes are operating correctly, go to a closed area such as a driveway or empty parking lot. Drive several yards, stop, then repeat the process, progressing farther each time. Next, hit the pavement and drive for a block or two, stopping periodically. This will "scrub in" the pads on the rotors and help seat them properly.
Stay tuned for our next installment, where we'll touch up the paint, sanitize the engine compartment, and perform an overall detailing.
Costs to Date
Vehicle purchase (includes tax and tags): $19,800
Clutch & flywheel installation (includes parts and labor): $1,732.46
Mirrors (paint and installation, includes parts and labor): $638.89
Rear weatherstripping (includes parts and labor): $146
Front and rear brake upgrade (includes parts and labor): $977
Total: $23,294.35
 Now that all four corners...  Now that all four corners are complete, it's time to bleed and replace the fluid. Siphon the remaining fluid from the master-cylinder reservoir first, then take a soft paper towel and gently wipe out the remainder. Do not use brake cleaner or any other solution to clean the reservoir unless you're planning to remove the unit completely and let it air-dry prior to reinstallation. A good bleeding tool can save a lot of time and minimize wasted fluid. |  To bleed the system, fill...  To bleed the system, fill the reservoir with silicone fluid and then move to the right rear caliper. It's important to start at the furthest point from the master cylinder so you get the majority of the old fluid out on the first bleed. Watch the color of the escaping fluid carefully. When it matches the new fluid, you'll know you've bled all the old fluid out of that line and caliper. Check the reservoir and refill as necessary, then move on to the next-furthest caliper (the left rear) and repeat the process. Next, work on the right front (where Phil is currently bleeding) and then the driver-side front to finish. Recheck the reservoir and carefully refill to the top line. Go back and make sure all bleeding screws are tight. |  Steve and Phil decided they...  Steve and Phil decided they weren't completely happy with the pedal fell after the caliper-bleed procedure, so they performed the tried-and-true two-man pedal bleed. Sometimes air will remain trapped within the master cylinder, and this is the best way to release it. |
 With the wheels back on, we're...  With the wheels back on, we're almost ready to enjoy the improved looks and functionality of the SSBC system... |  ...After completing the initial...  ...After completing the initial break-in procedure, subject the car to 25 to 50 miles of stop-and-go driving to allow the brakes to become well seated. | |