The SSBC package came complete with four CNC-slotted rotors and a set ofhigh-performance Hawk brake pads.
With our project car becoming quicker and more driveable with eachpassing month, we've decided to devote this month's story to upgradingthe Vette's stopping power. Powerful, reliable brakes are critical notonly when performing spirited driving maneuvers, but also in everydaytraffic, where a few extra feet of stopping distance can mean thedifference between a moment's drama and a hefty repair bill.
After a lengthy search of the performance-brake aftermarket, we settledon Stainless Steel Brake Corporation's Front and Rear Short Stop SlottedRotor and Upgrade Brake Pad Kit (Part No. A2350008).Priced at a reasonable $695, the system features plated, stock-sizedfront and rear rotors with curved vanes and directional slotting. A setof high-performance organic brake pads is also included.
We chose the slotted rotors for several reasons. First, unlikecross-drilled rotors, the slotted units perform the dual function ofcleaning the brake pads while also aiding in cooling. By preventing thebrake-pad surfaces from glazing over, slotted rotors can also reducenoise and dust buildup. Finally, a slotted rotor is less likely todevelop that unsettling pulsing feel during high-speed deceleration.
The front brakes are showing their age, but the calipers appear to bejust fine. No fluid leaks are visible, and they operate by hand asdesigned. An inspection of the rear binders yields similar results.
Since we won't be doing a lot of track time in the car, we decided notto go with too aggressive a pad compound. A common misconception amongperformance enthusiasts is that a racing pad will provide better overallbraking performance than a street compound. Although superior underextreme, high-heat conditions such as those found in road racing, thematerials utilized in a typical racing pad tend to perform poorly innormal driving conditions. The Hawk Performance pads that came with ourkit (SSBC Part Nos. 1095 and 1096) use a ferro-carbonorganic "Performance Street" compound that is designed to work under abroad range of temperatures and operating conditions.
Once you've unbolted the caliper from the spindle assembly and hung itwith a coat hanger or tie wrap--don't let it hang by the brake line--it'stime to remove the rotor. You'll probably have to tap on the back sidewith a rubber or plastic mallet to get it to pop off the spindle. | 
The caliper appears normal, and the pad life shows us the timing of ourswap was probably accurate. You may need to use a long pry bar orchannel locks to help compress the caliper pistons, as the added widthof the Hawk pads will make it impossible to slide the caliper onto thenew rotor. You may also want to touch up the paint on the calipers atthis point. | 
Here, Phil compresses the pistons with a pry bar to ease caliperinstallation. Be careful not to stretch or twist the brake line. |
It's also a good idea at this stage to replace the brake fluid. Overtime, brake fluid attracts moisture, and this can damage your mastercylinder, brake lines, and calipers. With the Shoe String C5 showingover 60,000 miles on the clock, we decided to add a 32-ounce bottle ofSSBC's silicone brake fluid (Part No. A1103) to ourorder. At $22, the fluid might seem pricey, but when you stop toconsider that you'll never have to replace it, that price starts to looka lot more attractive. Also keep in mind, that unlike conventional brakefluid, stored silicone fluid will not deteriorate over time. Be sure tofollow the manufacturer's instructions carefully and completely whenbleeding your brakes. It is critical that you don't mix conventional andsilicone fluids in the system.
Installation
With the parts arriving from SSBC's New York facility a day earlier thanpromised, we headed over to Keech's Automotive in nearby Sarasota,Florida, for the installation. Follow along with Phil Maltese and SteveKeech as they bring our C5 even closer to its goal of Z06-caliberperformance.
Here's the completed right front brake assembly. Pay close attentionwhen installing this type of rotor, as each one is corner specific. | 
After installing both front brake assemblies, go back and inspect theinstallation... | 
...Make sure the brake lines are free and clear, then turnthe assemblies through their full steering travel to ensure everythingis seated correctly. You may hear a slight scraping noise when you spinthe rotors. This is completely normal with slotted rotors and new pads. |
Break-in
When installing the rears, check for brake-line clearance through thefull range of suspension travel. Be careful when sliding the rotor overthe parking-brake assemblies. You remembered to release the parkingbrake first, right?
Once the new brakes are installed and the fluid has been changed, it'simportant to test the brakes before heading out. Before starting thecar, depress the brake pedal. Make sure you have a hard pedal feel andthe pressure remains firm. Next, start the car, apply the brakes severaltimes, then slowly drive off the lift, stopping first after 5 feet, then10, and so on. Once you feel confident that the brakes are operatingcorrectly, go to a closed area such as a driveway or empty parking lot.Drive several yards, stop, then repeat the process, progressing farthereach time. Next, hit the pavement and drive for a block or two, stoppingperiodically. This will "scrub in" the pads on the rotors and help seatthem properly.
Stay tuned for our next installment, where we'll touch up the paint,sanitize the engine compartment, and perform an overall detailing.
Costs to Date
Vehicle purchase (includes tax and tags): $19,800
Clutch & flywheel installation (includes parts and labor): $1,732.46
Mirrors (paint and installation, includes parts and labor): $638.89
Rear weatherstripping (includes parts and labor): $146
Front and rear brake upgrade (includes parts and labor): $977
Total: $23,294.35
Now that all four corners are complete, it's time to bleed and replacethe fluid. Siphon the remaining fluid from the master-cylinder reservoirfirst, then take a soft paper towel and gently wipe out the remainder.Do not use brake cleaner or any other solution to clean the reservoirunless you're planning to remove the unit completely and let it air-dryprior to reinstallation. A good bleeding tool can save a lot of time andminimize wasted fluid. | 
To bleed the system, fill the reservoir with silicone fluid and thenmove to the right rear caliper. It's important to start at the furthestpoint from the master cylinder so you get the majority of the old fluidout on the first bleed. Watch the color of the escaping fluid carefully.When it matches the new fluid, you'll know you've bled all the old fluidout of that line and caliper. Check the reservoir and refill asnecessary, then move on to the next-furthest caliper (the left rear) andrepeat the process. Next, work on the right front (where Phil iscurrently bleeding) and then the driver-side front to finish. Recheckthe reservoir and carefully refill to the top line. Go back and makesure all bleeding screws are tight. | 
Steve and Phil decided they weren't completely happy with the pedal fellafter the caliper-bleed procedure, so they performed the tried-and-truetwo-man pedal bleed. Sometimes air will remain trapped within the mastercylinder, and this is the best way to release it. |
With the wheels back on, we're almost ready to enjoy the improved looksand functionality of the SSBC system... | 
...After completing the initialbreak-in procedure, subject the car to 25 to 50 miles of stop-and-godriving to allow the brakes to become well seated. | |