They once were the Paha Sapa, the Black Mountains, a sacred and holy place for prayer and introspection to the Lakota, Oglala, and Northern Cheyenne peoples. The white invaders from the east called the region the Black Hills, an area where fortunes in gold could be made--and lost.
A dozen or more decades after thousands of lives were sacrificed by peoples of all colors and beliefs to control the area, the Black Hills remain immutable in their splendor and historical significance, a region of immense natural beauty and home to some magnificent roads to explore in a Corvette.
Most of the Black Hills region is part of the Black Hills National Forest and is situated in the southwest part of South Dakota, with some portions lapping into the northeast corner of Wyoming. At their extremes, the Black Hills run about 75-80 miles north to south and slightly under 50 miles from east to west. They are a stunning sight as you approach from any direction as they thrust darkly out of the gently rolling plains and grasslands of the surrounding region.
There's a tremendous amount of history tucked into the Black Hills including infamousold west towns like Deadwood, where gunfighter/sometime lawman Wild Bill Hickok met his end and is buried, and the glorious Mount Rushmore National Memorial. Not far--10-12 miles as the proverbial crow flies and about 30 on highways 16 and 385--is the Crazy Horse Memorial, a work in progress that, when completed, will be the largest statue in the world. The largest remaining herd of free-ranging bison is in the Custer State Park, and just a few miles to the west of the park is Jewel Cave National Monument. With over 125 miles of mapped passages, Jewel Cave is the second-longest cave in the United States, and the third longest in the world. Spearfish Canyon, to the south and west of the eponymously named community, offers an eye-popping array of scenery ranging from sheer cliffs and waterfalls to densely forested peaks, and meandering creeks, and 20-plus miles of glorious driving on Spearfish Canyon Scenic Highway (U.S. 14A).
Rob and I drove to Spearfish from Southern California to attend the Black Hills Corvette Classic in mid-July (I touched on that drive in last month's "Driver's Seat"), and stayed over for an extra day--all either of us could spare out of our schedules--to take a fast and, unfortunately, superficial look at the highlights of the region. In that one brief day we barely skimmed the surface of what the Black Hills have to offer. If you have a chance to explore this region, by car, off-road vehicle (there are hundreds of miles of gravel and dirt roads), or on foot on some of the many trails bisecting the National Forest, do so. It'll be an unforgettable experience.
EDITOR'S NOTE The photographs accompanying this article were taken in Utah, Wyoming, and South Dakota, on our way to Spearfish for the BHCC, and after the event. We've tried to identify the location of each shot as accurately as possible.
Dusk on Interstate 90, east of Gillette, WY. Wet highway and vivid red sunset as photographed in the right-hand rearview mirror of a '99 Hardtop. |
On the road to the Black Hills Corvette Classic. After miles and miles of featureless desert northeast of Las Vegas, NV, and shortly after entering the extreme northwest corner of Arizona, Interstate 15 passes through the Virgin River Gorge, a stunning section of road both from the scenic and driving standpoints. There was no traffic on the road so we were running through this section road-racer-style. |
Approximately 40 miles east and north of Salt Lake City, off of Interstate 80 lies Coalville, UT. This old brick building was the home of Moore Motors, the Chevrolet and Buick dealer for the region for many years. The Moore family still owns the building, and in the showroom are a late '20s Buick sedan, a '32 Chevy coupe, a post WWII Chevy pickup, and a '60s LeSabre. Cool stuff! |
On the road to the BHCC, to the east of Wyoming State Highway 220, between Rawlins and Casper. |
South of Casper, WY, to the east of Highway 220, the Alcova Reservoir. |
Between Casper and Gillette, WY, State Highway 387. No traffic, marvelous scenery, and a great place to run in a Corvette. |
South of Gillette, WY, we drove through heavy rain for 20-30 miles. After the rains eased up we were treated to several magnificent rainbows. |
In the Black Hills, Spearfish Canyon Scenic Highway. |
In the northeastern corner of the Black Hills. |
In the Black Hills, Spearfish Canyon Scenic Highway. |
In the Black Hills, coming into the legendary old west mining town of Deadwood from the west. |
High on a hillside overlooking Deadwood is the Mount Moriah Cemetery, final resting place for Wild Bill. Next to Hickok's lies another western legend, Mary Jane Canary, better known as Calamity Jane. |
Deadwood, SD. This is the very building, then and now a saloon, where Old West legend James Butler "Wild Bill" Hickok was gunned down while playing poker. |
State Highway 16, near Custer, SD. |
At a projected 563 feet high and 641 feet long when completed, the Crazy Horse Memorial should be spectacular, if... The day we were there, a Monday, there was no sign of work or workers on the statue, but there was a four-lane, Disneyland-style gate and a single entry admission fee of $9 per person or $20 per private vehicle, which seems like a ripoff compared to no admission fee and an $8 annual parking pass at Mount Rushmore. I guess I'm just being negative, again. |
Off Highway 16 in Custer State Park. |
This is one of three small tunnels carved through solid rock along Iron Mountain Road as you near Mount Rushmore from the south. The rule is one vehicle at a time, alternating directions. |
Mount Rushmore a couple miles south. Even the hideous visitor center at the base (which would have looked right at home in Nazi Germany) can't detract from this wondrous scene. Rushmore is an engineering marvel, an incredible work of art, and a glorious salute to four of our country's greatest leaders. |
What an inspiring sight. |
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Pactola Reservoir, to the west of State Highway 385. |